The Old Courtyard
This heritage hotel is located on Princess Street which by itself is one of the places to visit when in Cochin. A quiet street tucked away from the hustle and bustle of the city. Its close proximity to all the historical landmarks of Fort Kochi makes it the perfect place to stay.

The Old Courtyard was part of the home of the Jewish Koder Family. The entire home included the present day Koder House Hotel too. The hotel has been painstakingly restored from the dilapidated mansion it had become before. The antiquity of the place is still evident.

The staff were very courteous and willing to help at all times. We were given a cordial welcome when we reached. It was closing time for the restaurant but they conjured up some lip-smacking dishes which was a good gesture. We were made to feel at home and felt very pampered by the staff.

Our room was on the top floor of this three storeyed property. A mango tree in the middle of the courtyard added to the charm of this place. The decor is commendable. It was hard for us to believe the frame on the wall depicting the state this mansion was in before it was converted to a hotel. Our room had a four poster bed and the furniture transported us back in time.

We woke up early the next morning and the day seemed to be pleasant. We had a traditional breakfast consisting of Ethikya (Steamed Plantain with garnished with grated coconut) which was yummy. The lady who runs the hotel, Rose, with whom we had interacted over mail during the booking process came to us and inquired if everything was fine with the stay.

Backwater Cruise
We had arranged for a half day backwater cruise via Tom’s Old Mansion hotel located next door. After some initial delays due to the cab turning up late to pick us up, we managed to reach the place where the cruise starts only around 10 AM. Tourists of various nationalities were our companions on this cruise. The backwaters looked so serene. This was our first trip to the backwaters of Kerala. The blue sky in the background and the coconut trees on the bank added to the scene. It was amazing to watch how the boatman navigated the boat through narrow passages in the backwaters. We saw a Water Snake near the boat. Some of the birds that we saw were Kingfishers and some Cormorants. We could see people rowing their small boats ferrying goods.

We stopped at a lime factory and saw how the shells are processed and converted to lime. The next stop was at a coir making factory. Every by-product of the coconut tree is put to use by the people of this state. Nearby was a home where fresh homemade banana and tapioca chips were being sold. We grabbed a packet of the banana chips and started munching them Around the houses here were plants and trees bearing different types of spices. Our cruise came to an end shortly after this. The boat dropped us and proceeded with the remaining people who had booked the cruise till evening.

Fort Kochi
After lunch at Old Courtyard, we set out to see the historical places around. The plan was to be back in time to the Chinese Fishing Nets before sunset. We hired an auto for going around. The staff of Old Courtyard had given us a detailed map of all landmarks around which proved to be very useful.

Our first stop was at Mattancherry palace also called the Dutch palace. This palace was initially built by the Portuguese and gifted to the king of Cochin. Later it was repaired by the Dutch. Today it houses a museum of the relics belonging to the royal family. The intricately designed ceiling is worthy of mention. Unfortunately no photography is allowed inside which was disappointing. We had to make-do with the pictures from outside! I do not understand this practice of disallowing photography in many Indian museums and public places. But that’s a discussion for another day and post.

We walked across the street from the palace towards the Pardesi (Jewish) Synagogue nearby. On the way were shops glittering with souvenirs, spices and antiques. We saw the Pepper Exchange about which I had heard before the trip.

The synagogue was crowded with lots of school kids and other tourists. The crowd was slightly unmanageable and the people issuing the tickets were having a real hard time trying to organize the queue and restore some order. We just glimpsed the beautiful interiors of the synagogue from outside and did not attempt to go in. We saw picture frames of the Jewish settlement in and around Cochin over the times stacked in a room in chronological order. Most of the Jews who had made Cochin their home for a long time have returned to Israel now. The Synagogue and associated properties are looked after and managed by a handful who get deputed from Israel.

Next on the itinerary was the St.Francis church built in the sixteenth century by the Portuguese. Vasco Da Gama’s remains were housed here before being taken to Portugal. The peaceful atmosphere here was very soothing for us. The beautiful interiors of the church added to the tranquility. After spending some time here, we set out to the maritime museum. Unfortunately it was closed on that day.

Our friendly auto driver took us to the Bishop’s House next. One of the buildings in the compound here has been converted to a museum housing some antiques from the Portuguese families that lived in Cochin and also from the old churches.

We then went to the Santa Cruz Basilica which is considered to be the first European church constructed in Asia. It is an imposing structure and has rich interiors. We spent some time in the church grounds and headed back towards the hotel.

It was almost five in the evening when we got down near the hotel. We walked to the Chinese Fishing Nets which is a five minute walk from the hotel. These fishing nets almost five centuries old are still in use and effective! The fishermen were busy trying to catch the fish. The gulls were flying high. The sight of the sprawling coastline and boats speeding by was beautiful. Unfortunately sunset was not great due to clouds. We spent some time wandering here and getting pictures of the fishing nets and of some fishermen casting their nets beautifully.

Now was the time to relax and put our feet up. We had read up about a cafe called Teapot where tea was claimed to be excellent. We decided to go there and asked the hotel staff for directions. It was nearby and on the other side of the Princess Street. This cafe definitely needs a section for itself!

Teapot
This small cafe is tucked away in the quiet Peter Celli street. One can spend hours together here listening to some awesome music and sipping away cups of tea together with some cakes. A lovely hang-out place. This place has been done up tastefully. Teapots of various sizes and shapes from different eras adorn the walls. The collection is awesome! Doesn’t this sound great? We spent almost 2 hours here just relaxing and enjoying the lovely tea and pastries.

It was a great way to end our day in Cochin. It started drizzling as we walked back to the hotel. We retired early for the night after thanking the staff for all their help. We had an early start the next day at 4 AM to head to Thattekad.

We left the Jungle Lodges resort at K Gudi around 11.30 in the morning. The drive to B R Hills took us around 30-45 minutes. The chirping sounds of the birds and the lush green jungle made up for an excellent drive.

Gorukana stands for the the Web of the Spider. This resort is off the highway and close to the Ranganatha temple in B R Hills. The proceeds of this resort go to the VGKK (Vivekananda GiriJana Kalyana Kendra) organization which works for the development of the Soligas, the native tribe here. Most of the people working here belong to the Soliga community. The naturalists in the resort are very good.

We were given a cordial welcome at the reception and introduced to Krishna who would take us around for birding. He told us that the resort itself has a wide variety of birds. We arranged to go out in the evening with him.

The cottages have been built nicely and can easily accommodate a family of four. Every cottage has a loft which is ideal for kids as well as adults. The interiors have been done very nicely. Every cottage is named after a bird or an animal. We were put up at Navilu (Peacock) cottage while Niranj got the Gaur cottage. The view of a lake from the balcony gave the place an ethereal look.

We spent some time strolling by the lake and exploring the property.

The incessant sounds of the Common Hill Myna could be heard from the other side of the lake. Nagesh and Niranj were busy photographing a beautiful Dragonfly.

It was time for lunch and we proceeded to the dining area. The buffet spread was pretty decent but the food was not as good as JLR. It was manageable though. We met Jadeswamy (a senior naturalist) about whom we had heard from a couple of friends who had been here before.

After the noon siesta we set out towards the lake. An unforgettable sighting was of a group of the extremely colorful Malabar Parakeets flying over the lake. Krishna joined us and took us behind the property where we spotted Scaly-breasted Munia, Purple-rumped Sunbirds and the Scarlet Minivets. It started drizzling which made it impossible for us to go on the birding walk.

We relaxed in the dining area and had some tea. By the time it stopped raining it was almost 5. Krishna suggested that we could drive on the main road towards K Gudi as many sightings had occurred there before. As always we did not sight any animals except for a few deer. It was almost 7 by the time we were back.

A cultural programme depicting the dance of the Soliga tribe had been arranged in one of the halls in the resort. The Soliga troupe which has performed in many places throughout the country put up a good show. The dances performed for various festivals by these people were portrayed with enthusiasm. We had a good time watching them. After dinner we met up with Krishna and decided to go for birding around 7 in the morning.

The next morning saw us up early and exploring the resort. The place looked so peaceful.

Krishna joined us after a while. After a cup of tea we started walking on the main road near the resort. The first sightings were of Purple Rumped Sunbird in the Lantana bushes, the Hill Mynah and White-rumped Munia. We then spotted a Red whiskered Bulbul and a Plum Headed Parakeet gorging on the guavas atop a tree. A glance through the binoculars made Krishna spot a Vernal Hanging Parrot atop another Guava tree. The bird was camouflaged in the midst of leaves and the fruits which were of the same colour. We were excited as this was the first sighting of this beauty for us.

As we walked ahead on the highway we saw an Oriental Magpie Robin which seemed to be posing for the camera atop a bare stump at almost eye level.

It started drizzling soon and hunger had already set in. We went back to the resort and had a hearty breakfast. Jadeswamy joined us during breakfast. He had been on a jeep ride till K Gudi that morning to drop a couple staying in the resort for the safari ride organized by the forest department. As they were driving they suddenly saw a Leopard crossing the main road for a brief while. He was ruing over the fact that the guests could not take a single picture as they were overwhelmed by the sudden sighting of this prince of the Indian jungle. He then took us to a tree near the dining area to meet the South Indian Flying Lizard which was nicely camouflaged by the bark of the tree. The cameras went into action.

As we were leaving, a Scaly Breasted Munia couple came near our cottage. They seemed to be building a nest as they were flitting to and fro carrying straws plucked from the cottage roof. Not just the munias, an Indian Palm Squirrel was also busy building a nest in the thatch.

We went for a walk around the cottages hoping to get some more birds before we left. We were duly rewarded. We sighted a Tawny-bellied Babbler for the first time but couldn’t get a good picture of it. We then spotted and chased an Oriental White-eyeall over the place as it flitted from one tree to the other

The last sighting here was the Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch on a tree next to the parking lot. Bidding farewell to Krishna and Gorukana, we left back for Bangalore at around 12 PM. As we had spent much time birding in the morning, we decided to skip the visit to the temple. We will surely be heading back sometime soon to this place again!

The drive was peaceful. On the way we saw an Ashy Prinia close to the road atop a bush. I managed to get few decent shots of this cute bird. We reached home around 4 PM.

Map
The route suggested for those of us going to Gorukana (and/or BR Hills in general) from Bangalore is shown on the map below.

It is just 22 kms from Srinagar making it convenient to stay there and make a day trip to this park. Unlike other national parks there is supposedly no entry fee here! But permission needs to be taken from the Chief Wildlife Warden whose office is near Dal Lake below Grand Palace Hotel (Info Courtesy – Outlook Traveller’s Wildlife Holidays in India).

The main inhabitants of this park include the Hangul (Kashmir Stag) the only species of Red Deer found in India . Other than this there are the Himlayan Brown and Black Bears together with the elusive Leopards and Jungle Cats. The bird list is impressive with the likes of Kashmir Flycatcher, Himalayan Monal, Red Billed Blue Magpie and other exotic birds.

The best time to visit this place is September-October when bear sightings are frequent.

Please click on the below image to read more about Dachigam in the Kashmir tourism site.

Some of the useful links that I found while reading up about Dachigam are given below.

• EcoIndia.com has a detailed page including how to get there, safari info etc -> http://goo.gl/LjqHT

• Wildvistas.com has most of this and much more information. It also has a map. -> http://goo.gl/v38Wo

We started by 6 AM from home and were in Mysore by 9 AM. After a hearty breakfast at my home there we set out to Masinagudi. The weather was good and we managed to reach the resort by around 12 PM. Unlike last time when it was raining most of the time, this time the weather was sunny allowing us to be outdoors most of the time.

This time we were put up in a tree house next to a stream that marks the end of the resort property. The other side of the stream is the forest area. We could sit inside the tree house and gaze towards the forest. The gurgling stream provided a pleasant sound in the background.

Our first sighting was of a Crimson Backed Sunbird near the parking lot of the resort.

After having lunch followed by a siesta, we met Zo (The Nawab’s daughter-in-law) and the Nawab who welcomed us gladly. We had a cup of tea and the Nawab suggested that we could go for a walk with him to the forest if we were not tired. We agreed heartily and Zo informed us that another photographer Lakshmikanth and his wife and friends from Bangalore would be joining us. We waited for them to arrive. The Nawab showed us a nicely camouflaged nest of a Red-Whiskered Bulbul with the young ones right opposite the dining area.

We started walking enthusiastically towards the forest. As we took the diversion from the main road, we saw a Black-Rumped Flameback Woodpecker nearby at almost ground level. It was feasting on the insects present on the bark of a tree. We spent some time observing this beautiful and shy bird. The cameras in the group went into action and resulted in some brilliant pictures

Immediately after this was one of the best sightings that we have ever had. A Changeable Hawk Eagle said the Nawab excitedly. What a majestic bird it was! Our joy knew no bounds and Nagesh and Lakshmikanth started going closer to where the bird was perched to get better pictures. It soon grew weary of us and flew off. The Nawab managed to spot the eagle again after a short while. This time it did not notice us as it was being pestered by some pesky Bulbuls who were trying to shoo it away. They might have had young ones in the nest nearby is what we felt. Anyway this proved to be advantageous for us and resulted in some good pictures.

We then spotted some Yellow-Footed Green Pigeons far away. Since the light was not good in the place where they were perched, we could not get any pictures of them. After walking for a while we reached the ruins of an old temple. We spent a bit of time here and started on our way back.

It was approaching dusk and the wild animals would come out of their lairs. Sloth Bears and Elephants had recently been seen around this time by the Nawab. As we walked back, we could smell the presence of Elephants. We started walking together fast as we did not want an encounter with the Jumbos. The Nawab told us that he smelt Tiger Urine all around. A Tiger had passed by recently here and marked its territory with its urine! The Nawab’s jeep arrived and we were on the way back to the resort.

Suddenly we saw a juvenile Changeable Hawk Eagle being attacked by a Crested Serpent Eagle over what seemed to be a territorial conflict. Our arrival terminated the fight and we probably saved the poor bird’s life. It was wounded pretty badly and could not fly for a long time. Finally it made a mammoth effort and scurried off somehow.

After dinner we had a surprise awaiting us. Zo had found out that it was our anniversary and ordered for a cake We cut the cake amidst the cheers from everyone gathered for dinner. What a nice ending to our day!

We woke up early next morning and decided to go to Salim Ali’s tree nearby. As we approached the gate, we sighted a Purple-Rumped Sunbird busy hopping from flower to flower and drinking the nectar.

We had some treats awaiting us around Salim Ali’s tree. First sighting was of a Brown-Necked Raven and a huge fat Myna. Next came the Yellow-Crowned Woodpecker and the Lesser Yellow-Naped Woodpecker. A pair of Brahminy Starlings hopped on the ground. An Indian Palm Squirrel put out its tongue at us All in all we spent a good 2 hours here before it was time for some food.

After breakfast we had a close encounter with the Malabar Giant Squirrel which was feeding voraciously on the Guavas atop the trees. It was a pleasure watching this beautiful creature pluck the best Guavas, get it to its dining area (It was coming back to the same branch while eating!) and then start peeling the fruit vigorously. A shower of peals dropped on the ground!

We went back to the tree house and watched the trees around for any activity. We sighted a weary Mongoose who just rushed through the bushes. A pair of Scarlet Minivets were flitting nearby but at an angle where we could not get any pictures unfortunately. We managed to get some pictures of a White Cheeked Barbet which seemed to be feeding its young ones.

After a while we decided to go on a drive till Singara Coffee Estate and then towards Mudumalai. We tried spotting a Jamun tree in vain within the resort which is frequently visited by a Malabar Grey Hornbill around 11 AM daily as per the Nawab. The drive was nice but we did not spot anything except an Elephant in Mudumalai.

In the evening we went on a jeep ride with the Nawab and our new friends to the forest. We did not spot anything on this ride.

On the last morning of our stay here we decided to walk with our friends towards the Salim Ali tree as well as a path leading to the stream near Bear Mountain Resort where they had sighted birds before. We set out early. The sightings included herds of Chital Deer, Scarlet Minivets high atop Bamboo Thickets, Green Bee Eater and the Common Kingfisher.

The Salim Ali tree proved to be disappointing this time as there was absolutely no activity by the time we reached there. There are probably timings at which the birds are active here depending on the weather I guess. On our walk back to the resort we saw a Coppersmith Barbet.

Post breakfast we bid farewell to our friends who were leaving. After spending some time in the tree house observing the pet Geese of the resort playing in the stream we packed our belongings and started towards the parking lot.

Suddenly Nagesh said “Hornbill” and dropped all the stuff that he was carrying He immediatedly pulled out the camera and went in pursuit of this majestic bird. He came back excitedly. He had managed to get the pictures of the Hornbill as well as a Malabar Whistling Thrush which is a very elusive bird and more often heard than seen What a way to end the trip!

We met the Nawab who was very happy to know that we finally encountered the Hornbill. Bidding farewell to the entire family we set out at around 11 AM. We reached Mysore at around 1.30PM and had lunch at my home. We reached Bangalore at around 5.30 PM.

Fauna of Satpura includes Tiger, Deer, Leopard, Gaur, Wild Dog, Sloth Bear etc. The important thing to note is the relative lack of tourists as compared to other popular parks there like Kanha and Bandhavgarh which makes it favourable for us. Though animal sightings might not happen we can still enjoy watching birds for sure.

Please click on the above image for the Satpura National Park website which has all the information about the national park.

We had come to Ranganathittu the previous day and stayed in Mysore overnight. After a hearty breakfast at the famous GTR (Gayathri Tiffin Room) we commenced our journey to K Gudi around 10 AM. Some stretches of the road were bad past Nanjangud town. After crossing Chamarajanagar the beautiful hills came into view.

We crossed the B R Hills Sanctuary check post around 12 PM. We were asked not to stop anywhere within the forest. The resort is around 15-20 kms from the check post. Beyond the checkpost, most of the road was in a bad state and in the process of getting repaired. Therefore one would be well advised to approach K.Gudi from Yelandur instead of from Chamarajnagar; that is also a closer route from Bangalore. The uniqueness of this JLR resort is that it is inside the jungle and not fenced. There is no electricity here and a generator is used in the early mornings and for 3-4 hours in the night. It can get quite cold here, especially in the monsoon and in the winters. We had therefore booked the log huts instead of tented cottages and also carried warm clothing.

When we entered the resort the people at the reception welcomed us and took us to our loghuts immediately. We chose the Biligiri hut while Niranj got the Nilgiri hut. These huts were at the edge of the property. The JLR guy who showed us our room told us that we might get to spot some wild animals in the night after the lights were off and we were silent enough. The huts were well furnished and beautiful.

We spotted a pair of Scarlet Minivets on one of the trees near our hut. Nagesh and Niranj took out their cameras and sat on a nearby rock happily.

Soon it was time for lunch and we went to the Gol Ghar (name given to dining area of JLR Resorts). Like all our previous experiences at JLR the food was excellent here too. Given the fact that we were in the jungle, it was an excellent effort by the cooks and they never disappointed us throughout our stay here. After a hearty lunch we went for the noon siesta. It was drizzling. The evening safari would start at 4.30 PM and we had to assemble near the reception around 4 PM for tea/coffee and biscuits.

By the time we woke up the rain had abated. We set out to the reception and had tea. The safari started on time. Our companions on this safari included a friendly couple from Chennai and their little daughter. We saw some tame Chital Deer and Elephants as we left the resort.

As we crossed the check post at a diversion from the main road, we came across some Soliga homes. The people of this tribal community live in harmony with nature and worship all forms of nature. The first sighting was of a Brown Fish Owl which was deep asleep atop a tree. The visibility was not great for taking pictures due to the gloomy weather after rain.

We then saw the three varieties of deer namely Chital, Sambar and the Barking Deer.

The birds that we spotted were Black Drongo, Greater Racket Tailed Drongo, Orange Headed Thrush, Yellow footed Green Pigeon, Jungle Owlet and White Throated Kingfisher. The “cats” did not make an appearance. Our driver told us that summer is usually the best time for viewing Leopards and the occasional Tigers. There is a point called Leopard Rock where the Leopards supposedly sit for hours together some times in the evenings when it is sunny.

An unusual sighting was of a Black Rumped Flameback Woodpecker feasting on the side of the jeep track with a group of seven Jungle Babblers. Nobody knew the reason behind this behaviour. We later got to know that different species of birds sometimes get together to feed on the Termites which come out post the rains.

The safari lasted for a good two hours and we were back at the resort by around 7 PM. A pack of Dholes (Wild Dogs) had been spotted near the property by the staff when we had been on the safari. We had missed a golden opportunity. Hot Pakoras and Coffee/Tea awaited us at the hall next to the reception area. A documentary on Dholes was being played. We did not watch the entire screening and left for the hut as we had already seen it during our trip to Kabini. After having some nice dinner we retired early for the night since the generator is switched off by around 10 PM.

We woke up early the next morning by 6 AM to the sounds of birds. After having some coffee and biscuits we set out for the safari at 6.30 AM. The forest looked so pristine. It was misty as well.

The sightings were again of the three types of Deer and Wild Boars. We then sighted the majestic Crested Serpent Eagle. It allowed us to take some pictures before it flew off.

Next came the sighting of a baby Elephant which got petrified on seeing our jeep and started making noises. The mother came immediately and seemed very much annoyed and worried. She started shaking the bushes vigorously. We were worried that that the Elephant would charge us. The Elephant seemed to try and smell the danger (we humans). Given that we were upwind from the elephant, it probably did not smell us and hence did not charge. Our driver told that it was not safe to remain there anymore. It was a scary experience! We immediately left the place.

The next sighting was a momentary glimpse of a Tree Shrew which disappeared immediately. It is endemic to this region and elusive. We then stopped near a water body in the forest to see if any animals were there. But we did not sight anything. This is one place within the jungle where we were allowed to venture out of the jeeps. This place had Leeches and Niranj got bitten when he stepped out from the jeep to take pictures.

We returned from the Safari around 8.30 AM and had breakfast. Afterwards we went for a walk on the main road. We spent some time with the tame deer just outside the resort.

We spotted a Great Tit on a tree nearby. It seemed impossible to get a picture of this hyperactive tiny bird. It was never still for a moment. It started raining and we rushed back to the resort. When we reached the reception area we heard a bird making distressed sounds. It turned out to be a juvenile Rufous Treepie which seemed lost and constantly screeched for its mother maybe. It could not fly due to the rain. It is hard to believe that such a colourful and beautiful bird belongs to the same family as the Common Crow.

The resort was arranging for jeeps to take those interested to the temple at B R Hills. We decided not to go as we would be staying at Gorukana resort in B R Hills the next day and the temple would be closer from there. We went back to our rooms. We sighted some birds near our room. Some Black Drongoes were trying to shoo away a Greater Racket Tailed Drongo.

A Black Hooded Oriole was sitting close to where the Drongoes were creating a ruckus.

During lunch we spotted some Bonnet Macaque Monkeys and Langurs as well. One of the monkeys had managed to steal a Phulka and was happily gorging on it. Another one stood on its hind legs to show us that it can also stand on two legs

The evening safari did not yield any different sightings. The Brown Fish Owl was sleeping at exactly the same spot as the day before. The Racket Tailed Drongo and Orange Headed Thrush seemed to be following us everywhere. We even went on the main road for reasonable distance as many sightings had happened there in the past. But we were not lucky enough on this occasion.

The last safari on the next morning also did not yield any new sightings except for a Grey Junglefowl. Even the Deer seemed to have grown weary and decided not to come out. The Crested Serpent Eagle gave an occasional appearance.

Our driver took us through a path called Mooradi Raste (Three Feet Road) in the forest. This narrow path was engulfed by Lantana bushes and we had an adventurous ride. By the time we got out of this path, we were covered with leaves and Lantana flowers. The driver had got bitten by a leech.

As we were walking back to our huts after breakfast we saw a juvenile White Bellied Drongo.

We checked out of the resort at around 11 AM and set forth for Gorukana.

Map

Journey

1. We started from home on a Sunday morning around 8.30. The plan was to have breakfast at Dobbaspet. We managed to reach the Davanagere Benne Masala Dose joint opposite Dobbaspet Police Station by 10 and enjoyed some dosas! We got the delicious Thatte Idly packed for lunch as Maidenahalli or nearby areas do not have any eating options. The nearest town is Madhugiri.
2. After the left turn turn for Devarayanadurga where we have been previously, the road was not that good. The greenery on both sides of the road compensated for the bad road.
3. We passed through Koratagere and the majestic fort of Madhugiri perched on the second biggest Monolith in Asia came into sight. What a place to build a fort! After the town of Madhugiri you need to take a left turn after about 1 km on the road to Hindupur. This road had a board indicating the black-buck reserve. This road leads to Puruvara.
4. After crossing the village you have to go on the I D Halli Road past the villages of Badakanahalli and Giregowdanahalli. About 1.5 kms from here there is a board on the right side of the road indicating the reserve. From here a mud road starts which goes into the reserve. We reached here around 1 PM.

Jayamangali Reserve

We were greeted by kids at the gate of the reserve shouting cheerfully that there were no black-bucks in the reserve. The terrain had changed gradually once we crossed Puruvara. This was plain land territory. The beautiful skies added a magical touch to the scenery. We spotted some Green bee-eaters and Drongoes flitting nearby.

As we moved forward the government IB came into view. The caretaker Mr.Murthy came to us and said that he would come with us in our car to show us the black-bucks. According to him, we were pretty late in reaching there as the blackbucks do not come out after early morning as the farmers in the adjoining lands start their work and the black-bucks keep away from humans. He suggested that we come back again for camping. Early morning would be ideal to watch the black-bucks in action as well as foxes and birds. The IB has basic facilities only and food is not available there.

He soon spotted a herd of blackbucks in the distance. They started watching us warily and ran away pretty soon. Nagesh managed to get a few  record shots and one very good shot of a leaping blackbuck.

However this did not feel satisfactory. We decided to come back some other time for overnight camping. We went back to the IB and had our lunch. We spotted some Rufous Shrikes, Large Grey Babblers, Brahminy Starling and Common Iora.

On getting out of the gate of the reserve we spotted a Black Winged Kite with lizard. Our trip had ended well!

The thought of going to Masinagudi sprang up then and we started looking for a good place to stay there. We mailed a couple of resorts which sounded interesting. The first reply came from Zo of Safari Land Resort. They had accommodation and it suited our budget too. We decided to book tree houses for 2 nights for the sheer experience. Another interesting aspect of this place was that it is owned by Nawab Shafath Ali Khan, a former national rifle shooting champion and modern day Jim Corbett. He has shot a few man eating tigers as well. In addition to this he is also a conservationist, all of which got us very interested in the man. The four of us (myself, Nagesh, Niranj and Pratap) are nature enthusiasts and birders. With my exception the rest are into photography as well.

While we started at 7AM from Bangalore, we reached Masinagudi only by 2PM. Courtesy chaotic long weekend traffic heading out of Bangalore and some mess we created for ourselves by taking offbeat roads in Mysore. On the way we did however enjoy some lovely food at good old Maddur Tiffany’s, especially the Maddur Vadas! The road beyond Mysore is pretty scenic and dotted with lush green fields and a couple of water bodies near Nanjangud. The weather had turned rainy and visibility was low within Bandipur and the Mudumalai National Park. All in all, made for a lovely drive.

We were ravenously hungry and gobbled the lunch with great gusto before going to the tree house. It was still drizzling when we finished lunch. We then went to the tree house and it looked very cosy. Here are some pics of the resort.

After the afternoon siesta we woke up only to see that it was still raining It finally stopped around 5 PM and the resort people had put together a small trek to the nearby hill. One word of caution to those of you going to Masinagudi. Do carry insect repellent with you. Especially if it is raining, it is required. We remembered to apply insect repellant before venturing out and it proved to be very useful. The hill was very scenic and had a small temple at the top. The views of the Nilgiris from the top of the hill were fantastic. We spent some time here taking pictures of the landscape and the changing light during sunset.

Our “guide” for this trek told us that we could try our luck in spotting wildlife by driving down the Moyar Dam Road from Masinagudi town, especially after dark. Since we still had time for dinner, we decided to drive down that road. However, as is our wont, we did not spot anything and returned back to the resort.

We met the Nawab during dinner. The Nawab is a hearty man and is a brilliant conversationalist, especially around topics of nature and wildlife. He regaled us with many stories of his hunts and experiences! After getting to know that we are nature enthusiasts and birders, he generously offered to take us on a jeep ride to the forest the next morning for birding.

We woke up early to the mesmerizing song of the Malabar Whistling Thrush and were out near the dining area by around 6.30 AM. Nawab Saheb was already out and about. The first stop on our road was a huge tree on the main road near the resort, a favorite of the Nawab. There was a cacophony of sounds and we could see so many birds together. Black Hooded Oriole, Asian Koel, Crow Pheasant and Plum Headed Parakeets were some of the birds we caught sight of on the tree.

We took a detour from the main road to head into the forest. We spotted quite a few birds like Indian Bush Lark, Red Wattled Lapwing, White Throated Kingfisher, Spotted Dove, Red Vented Bulbul, Oriental Magpie Robin and Black Drongo. Also saw some Chital Deer having their breakfast amidst the lush green shrubs.

We had ventured into the open forest land behind the resort and at one spot, the Nilgiris looked so serene that we stopped to take some pictures and admire the beauty of this place.

The Nawab has personally modified his jeep and installed low gears, making it a high performance 4X4. To our thrill, he made the jeep climb up a small flight of stairs leading to a dilapidated house in the fringes of the forest followed by going up a mound next to the road with an incline of nearly 60 degrees. It was a memorable experience, though a little scary!

We returned back to the resort around 9 AM in time for the breakfast. The food in this resort is very homely and delicious. The Nawab’s family runs this resort and Zo, the Nawab’s daughter-in-law and Asghar, the Nawab’s son, manage most of the show. Near the dining area, we spotted a “resident” Malabar Giant Squirrel. An Oriental Magpie Robin was flitting around as we were eating.

Post breakfast, we walked back to the “Nawab’s tree” where we had been before. We spotted few more birds like Jungle Babblers, Red Whiskered Bulbul, Coppersmith Barbet, Rufous Backed Shrike, Brahminy Starling and the Grey Wagtail.

The Nawab had also told us about a tree which Salim Ali, the noted Indian Ornithologist, used to frequent whenever he visited this part of the country. It was next to a small temple further up the road from the resort. We decided to head out there to meet the inhabitants of trees, the birds

Initially we could not spot anything atop the tree. Slowly our eyes got accustomed to the tree and we gradually started seeing the birds. Our first prized viewing was of a Brown Capped Pygmy Woodpecker. It is a small and beautiful bird and seemed to be ravenously hungry as it munched on the berries growing on the tree.

We returned back to the resort by around 12 PM. Everyone except me went to chat with the Nawab while I was going towards the tree house with the camera. Suddenly I saw a beautiful bird which I had never seen before. I started clicking furiously so that at least one shot would come out reasonably well. The bird seemed to be posing for me for a good 2-3 minutes before it flew. I excitedly showed everyone the captures. Niranj identified it as a Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher.

It started raining again post lunch and continued for a good part of the evening. We relaxed in the resort and played a few indoor games like Carrom and Table Tennis before dinner.

We were leaving early the next morning since Nagesh was leaving for US on the same day by the evening flight. We left the resort around 6.30 in the morning and decided to make a brief stopover at Salim Ali’s tree before going back. We were duly rewarded by the presence of the colourful Coppersmith Barbet and the Oriental White Eye.

We had breakfast at Jungle Lodges in Bandipur. The plain dosa was simply out of the world! After a brief stopover at my home in Mysore and a sumptuous lunch at Kadambam we were back home in Bangalore by 4 PM.

Map

http://g.co/maps/deh43

One of the things we had decided before this trip was that we will do offbeat destinations in this city steeped in history. Some of the hidden jewels in this city are really worth a visit. We sought the help of Wikitravel and the Rough Guide ( Rajasthan, Delhi and Agra) in deciding which places to visit.

Mehtab Bagh

As all of you know the Taj Mahal is situated on the banks of the Yamuna river. Mehtab Bagh is a garden which is situated on the other bank of Yamuna directly opposite the Taj. Mehtab Bagh stands for Moonlight garden. One of the most astounding features of the Taj is its symmetry. A local fable has it that Shah Jahan’s grand plans included building a copy/replica of the Taj on the opposite side of Yamuna albeit in Black Marble. If so Shah Jehan never got around to completing his dream. Had he succeeded, can you imagine how much more magnificent this edifice would have been?! Anyway, within Mehtab Bagh, right opposite the Taj there are remnants of a foundation that suggest that there is probably some truth in this local fable.

Today one can view the Taj across the Yamuna in an unhindered manner in the absence of the omnipresent “tourists” from here. What better setting than the lush green lawns adorned with colourful flowering plants!

The tranquility and relative lack of tourists of this garden lends itself well to local lovebirds who want to script their own love stories in the footsteps of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal

As we were leaving we saw a couple of Cattle Egrets which seemed to be engrossed in viewing the Taj!

Itimad-ud-Daulah

This is a tomb built by the queen Nur Jahan for her father Mirza Ghiyas Beg. He was the chief Minister in Emperor Jahangir’s court. He earned the title of Itimad-ud-Daulah which translates to Pillar of the State. This tomb is popularly known by the locals as the ‘Baby Taj’. It has been built entirely with Marble and has beautiful intricate inlay work on the walls.

Sikandra

Sikandra is home to the tomb of Emperor Akbar the Great. Akbar himself chose this site for his burial in keeping with the tradition of building one’s tomb in his lifetime. Jahangir completed the construction of this place after Akbar’s death. Akbar’s wife Mariam is also buried here. Many of Akbar’s children including stillborn infants are buried here.

I don’t need to tell you that Akbar was possibly the greatest Mughal Emperor that India saw. An emperor as great as Akbar deserves an equally grand resting place. Sikandra is that and so much more. The size rivals small forts. The architecture is unparalleled. The main structure of the tomb and the surrounding walls are built using red sandstone with white marble inlay work.

Taj By Moonlight

The Taj Mahal is considered to be one of the wonders of the world. It is a symbol of undying and eternal love. A different and magnificent way of viewing Taj would be to visit it at night on a full moon day. Bathed in moonlight, the Taj takes an ethereal look and looks like a castle from a fairy tale.

You need to carry an ID proof with you while going to watch the Taj by moonlight. All belongings must be left behind and no eatables are allowed. Thankfully photography is allowed but without tripods and the likes. Difficult but possible. Viewing Taj by Moonlight is allowed for five days in a month (The full moon day along-with two days before and after the full moon except Fridays). Per night only 400 people are allowed in multiple batches with each batch being a max of 50 to view the Taj. Each batch of people get to spend 30 minutes here. The viewing happens from the sandstone platform just within the main enclosure of the Taj and the Taj is a good 500m away. Even from that distance, the magnificence and radiance of the Taj is something else totally. Just not describable in words!

As I mentioned before, we were in Agra on the full moon day. Our home-stay owner arranged the tickets for us through an agent. For those interested, tickets for viewing Taj by moonlight can be obtained only one day in advance from the Agra Tourism office. After security checks, we boarded an electric bus from the parking lot of the Taj and went to the North entrance. It was a struggle to get the cameras to focus and manage to capture the Taj given the darkness. However Nagesh managed to get a few shots just before it was time for us to leave.

Some of the places which we could not visit here but would like to do in future are the Agra Fort, Chini Ka Rauza, Swami Bagh Samadhi, Fatehpur Sikri and Jama Masjid. Maybe a normal visit during the day to the Taj as well! For the birding enthusiasts there is Keetham Lake on the outskirts of Agra in Sur Sarovar Bird Sanctuary to view a reasonable variety of water birds.

A trip to Agra is not considered complete if you do not taste the famous Agra Petha (a sweetmeat made of pumpkin and sugar). We were told that the best place to buy them is Panchi Sweets on the Delhi-Agra highway close to Sikandra.

Amer Fort

The Amer Fort also called as Amber Fort is perched upon a hill and offers a breathtaking view of the Aravalli mountains. It was built by the Kings belonging to the Meena dynasty. Over a period of time the Meenas were overthrown by the Kachwaha Rajputs. Today Amer is just a shadow of its glorious past but beautiful nevertheless.

The main gate at the entrance is the Suraj Pol (Sun Gate). This leads into a courtyard which was used for victory parades by the army when they returned victoriously from battles. A stairway from this courtyard leads you into the palace complex. Next to this stairway is a temple of Sila devi where the Kings used to worship the Goddess by offering animal sacrifices in the past.

The Ganesh Pol is a beautiful gate that leads into the chambers of the royal family. It has beautiful frescoes and paintings. Atop this gate is the Suhag Mandir (Balcony) where the ladies belonging to royal family could sit and observe the proceedings in the Diwan I Aam below through the Jharokhas (Windows with intricate latticework).

The next courtyard has some Mughal Gardens with colourful flowers. It also houses the Sheesh Mahal which is a beautiful chamber whose walls and ceiling are adorned with glass pieces.

Another beautiful sight here are the corridors featured in the cover of the Rough Guide to Rajasthan, Delhi and Agra.

The Baradari pavilion offers some shade for the weary traveller. That’s a weary me sitting down for a breather in the pic below.

There is an underground tunnel which connects the Amer Fort with the Jaigarh Fort. This tunnel was used for evacuating the royal family when the fort was under attack. Today the tunnel is closed but the initial part is open for public. It was an eerie experience to walk here!

Jagat Siromaniji Temple

An old temple in the heart of Amer town below the fort. This temple is dedicated to Lord Krishna and was built by Raja Man Singh I in memory of his son. It is said that the idol of Lord Krishna here is the same that Meerabai used to worship.

Souvenirs

We visited a shopping complex in Amer suggested by our guide. There were couple of artists there demonstrating how the Sanganeri hand block prints are made on cloth. We bought silver earrings, lac bangles, Meenakari camel and elephant figurines, Rajais, Bedspreads and dress materials. We had a look at the exquisite Kundan jewellery which is the specialty of this region. Also took a look at furniture made of Makrana Marble.